8.30 a.m. Nathalie Mourot, pick up your phone! That's my photographer I am talking about…the ever-accommodating mademoiselle is mysteriously missing this morning, only two hours before we are scheduled to head to Paris' polo grounds for an exclusive backstage shoot at Dior's Spring/Summer 2007 haute couture showing. I swallow two exquisitely buttery croissants, slip into my luxe James Ferreira red silk dress and impossible killer heels; my almost-defunct Nokia is burning my ear to ashes. And still no answer from my French photographer.

10.45 a.m. Nathalie calls! With the worst news possible. She has just emerged from the hospital with her neck in a brace (early morning car accident) and lugging a camera over her shoulder is out of the question. Before I can launch into a full-fledged martyred breakdown, she rings off, with a promise to find me a replacement. Not very encouraging, as the photographer she is trying to reach has chosen to sleep late instead of waiting by his phone to come rescue my story.

11 a.m. Kalyani Chawla, my host and Dior brand ambassador, India, is sympathetic but impatient to leave for the venue. Maybe once we get there, scouting for pictures from in-house photographers will become an option.

11.30 a.m. Guillame to the rescue! Nathalie has found her partner in crime and assures me that he will reach the polo grounds latest by twelve noon.

12.10 p.m. A very innocent-looking French boy meets me at the gates with his tiny haversack and scooter helmet. I am dubious, but grateful. Five minutes and the shortest shoot briefing later, and Guillame is in action. A quick look at his digital camera and I am genuinely thankful this time - I have a winner on my hands. Project Dior is truly underway!

12.25 p.m. I stroll through the narrow corridor of the backstage area, my pointy heels digging mini holes through the wooden floor boards; very rustic, functional set up, this. My thick grey overcoat is firmly in place; any notions of showcasing my crimson creation underneath have been thrown out the heavy hospital style white doors - even my fashion fed system cannot survive two degrees of wind and cold in flimsy silk.
Colourful salads, brown bread sandwiches and diet colas complement cartons of Evian and fresh coffee - fodder for ethereal models and earthly beings alike. Skinny is still in, my friends. I grab a salad; croissants are off my 'foods to die for' list forever…or at least until tomorrow morning.

12.35 p.m. Everybody is in black; it's like a chic mourning parade here. Pat McGrath, make-up artist extraordinaire, also in black (with contrasting, blindingly white teeth), is "living the couture moment! We work for a few days on the looks for the show, constantly experimenting with trials on the models." Once don John gives his nod of approval, polaroids of the final profiles are captured for reference on the final day. Five make-up sections for forty-five girls, which means a distinct look for a batch of nine models each. Every work counter is a mirrored space of brushes, foundations and colour palettes. And lucky me gets to see the lineage of Japanese culture begin to tell its story stroke by stroke. Alec Wek, supermodel with the irrepressible dimples, flashes me a grin and winks - she is experiencing the excruciating magic first hand as it gets painted onto her face.

12.55 p.m. There is a quiet buzz; the easy camaraderie of a fantastic talent pool working in perfect tandem. Orlando Pita, celebrity hairstylist from New York (visit his salon Orla, for the Hollywood experience) has come down especially for the Dior and Valentino couture shows. He imparts with some practical advice, "Never follow hair trends, see what works for your face shape, what actually suits you and what can easily be put together without the help of a stylist." He needs to visit Mumbai to try and convert our blowdry-addicted city.

1.15 p.m. Fake nails are being buffed and painstakingly polished in white and red. Elsa Klench from FTV (fitted jacket and pencil skirt in today's ubiquitous black, but a break with leopard print boots and a tan Louis Vuitton tote) has finished with her round of interviews and journalists slowly clear the crowded areas so that final touches to the models can continue in relative peace.