Though the tradition of adornment is deeply embedded in India’s heritage, conceptual designer jewellery is still in its fledgling stages. Indian jewellery designer, Poonam Soni, is set to take Indian ornament design to a whole new dimension, and give it a global platform. After a display at the Incredible India 2007 show in Paris, Soni’s creations have now found a place in Italy’s TJF Trendbook 2009.

Inspired by art, Soni’s ‘Monochromes’ collection (2007) incorporated miniature canvas paintings by notable artist Laxman Shreshtha. “Though the collection received excellent critical response, it was not very accessible to Indian consumers, because of its pricing,” points out Soni. “I realised that I had to make a stronger connect with the Indian market, and for my next collection, I have worked on a wider range of designs and prices.”

A trip to Barcelona, Spain, kindled a passionate interest in the work of historic architect Antoni Gaudi. “I was amazed at the brilliance of his imagination,” says Soni, who was particularly swayed by the stained glass, mosaic, brick-work and metal meshes at the Park Guell, Sagrada Familia and El Capricho. Flooded with inspiration, Soni set to work on jewellery that embodied the genius architect’s ethos, which resulted in a collection called ‘Gaudi Revived’. Artist Indraniel Kamath has collaborated to paint miniature stained glass pieces, which are set with gems, in copper, plexi-glass and precious metal. “The aim was to authentically translate history to aesthetic jewellery,” Soni says.

She has received permission to use the official Spanish seal for her collection promotions, and has patented her work – a trend that is catching up in Indian design. Next year, Soni will display her creations at the Gaudi Museum in Barcelona. “I want to take Indian designer jewellery to the next level internationally,” says Soni. “The big international designers often act like snobs because of their brand-name and pricing, but our jewellery is as good as theirs. We have an ancient tradition, and deserve equal respect.” With pioneers like Soni, it is only a matter of time that Indian jewellery houses would be noticed and revered in the global design arena.